After a legacy-defining 11 years at Loewe, Jonathan Anderson’s appointment as creative director for men’s, women’s, couture, and accessories at Dior was explosive and statement-making. The industry held its collective breath – would Anderson’s playful genius sync with the maison’s storied sophistication? The answer arrived at Paris Men’s Fashion Week 2025, as CEO Delphine Arnault’s high-stakes gamble hit the runway in the form of Dior Homme Spring/Summer 2026.
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A Seasoned Designer Finds A New Playground
Buzz for Jonathan Anderson’s Dior debut was stirring long before anyone even stepped foot in the French capital. Those lucky enough to score a coveted invite received one in the form of a porcelain plate topped with three sculpted eggs (a wink to a 1975 Dior Maison objet) – acting as both a quirky conversation-starter as well as a not-so-subtle promise that surprises lay ahead. The show delivered: forward-thinking, yet unmistakably timeless.
With the Dior archives flung open, the Northern Irish designer gained an arsenal of vintage silhouettes to tweak and tease. The result? A collection that retains his signature Anderson whimsy while being unafraid to explore the roots of the historic brand as well as Monsieur Christian Dior himself – particularly his love for the romance and glamour of the Regency era.
In photos from his mood board shared on Instagram prior to the show, Anderson delved into references like Jean-Michel Basquiat and Lee Radziwill. While all these inspirations wonderfully showed up throughout the collection (with ties purposefully askew in homage to Basquiat), Anderson’s ultimate triumph is succeeding in marrying the sartorial worlds of Dior and ‘Jonathan Anderson’ (despite a hint of Loewe still lingering).
Everything The ‘Modern Man’ Needs – And More
Anderson built a wardrobe of button-downs, wide-leg trousers, cable-knit sweaters and silk neckties – but styled them with a dash of mischief. Dior’s famed Bar Jacket resurfaced in glitter-flecked Irish Donegal tweed and was paired with pannier-like cargo shorts, while lavender waistcoats layered over cream knits nodded to Regency romance without feeling costume-y.
Elsewhere, velvet tailcoats mingled with boxing-inspired high-top sneakers, and the ever-sell-out Book Tote returned in three sizes embroidered with classic novel covers – literary chic, courtesy of Anderson’s quirky mind. Practically every look could walk straight off the runway (yes, even the flowing shirt-dresses and blanket-caped coats), but it was the off-kilter pairings – ties worn backward, collars left undone – that signalled a fresh Dior chapter.
One Down, More To Come
Looking at the hot seats at this Dior show, one would notice that it’s not just celebrities like Rihanna, A$AP Rocky, Sabrina Carpenter, and Robert Pattinson that are drawing all the attention. In fact, Anderson’s fellow peers and creative directors from across the industry also came in droves – with Pierpaolo Piccioli, Simon Porte Jacquemus, Michael Rider, Pharrell Williams, Donatella Versace, and more – a signal of just how much support and excitement Anderson and his work still garners.
And remember: this is the first time since Monsieur Dior himself that a single designer steers every creative department. Anderson’s women’s ready-to-wear debut is slated for October, followed by couture and accessories. If this menswear curtain-raiser is any indication, the house of Dior is set for a thrilling renaissance.
Born in Korea and raised in Hong Kong, Min Ji has combined her degree in anthropology and creative writing with her passion for going on unsolicited tangents as an editor at Friday Club. In between watching an endless amount of movies, she enjoys trying new cocktails and pastas while occasionally snapping a few pictures.
