Of all the major shifts unfolding in fashion this season, one of the most assured and closely watched moments came from a brand thatโs never relied on social media hype โ Bottega Veneta, long admired for its understated strength. At Milan Fashion Week, Louise Trotter unveiled her debut Spring/Summer 2026 collection, not merely stepping into Matthieu Blazyโs footsteps but charting a fresh, deeply personal direction for the Italian luxury house.
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A New Chapter For Bottega Veneta
Trotter, the first woman to serve as creative director in the houseโs history, approached her role with the eye of someone deeply attuned to heritage and the forward-looking sensibility of a contemporary designer. In her show notes, she pointed to the essence of her inspiration: โI like that the โBottegaโ is a workshop.โ This emphasis on collaborative craftsmanship became the soul of the collection.
Trotterโs accomplished career โ spanning key roles at Calvin Klein, Joseph, Lacoste, and Carven โ has consistently centred around evolution. At Bottega Veneta, she showed a deep understanding of the brandโs identity.
Weave As Philosophy
The iconic Intrecciato weave wasnโt just echoed โ it became the guiding principle of the entire collection. As Trotter put it, โIt is two different strips woven together that become stronger โ the two things make a stronger whole. Collaboration and connectivity run throughout this house and its history, from its beginnings to what it is now.โ
This idea of weaving together unfolded both literally and metaphorically. A hand-woven leather cape โ crafted over 4,000 hours โ showcased the atelierโs exceptional skill and dedication. Elsewhere, the technique found its way into ready-to-wear with striking finesse: a sweater that resembled snakeskin from a distance and an intricately woven T-shirt revealed that Intrecciato is more than a method โ itโs a language of its own.
Loud Luxury
The collection explored texture and material with remarkable depth, playing with contrasts between the raw and the polished. Nappa leather flowed like water โ even in structured, boxy shapes โ while featherlight tailoring was sharply defined and carefully cinched. Parachute silk dresses glided over the body, moving with each step, and fluid silhouettes with fringe tassels added a sense of rhythm and vitality.
Trotter also gently moved away from the constraints of โquiet luxury.โ In its place was an unapologetic expression of richness and presence. Striking sweaters in silver-blue, red, and orange โ some made from recycled fibreglass โ featured padded shoulders, nodding to the โ80s but filtered through Bottegaโs sleek lens.
The colour journey opened with a clean, sophisticated contrast of black and white, then unfolded into a dreamlike spectrum: a sea moss-green jacket as soft as butter, a luminous tangerine coat, and nuanced shades of purple โ all layered against the houseโs signature neutrals.
Craftsmanship As A Shared Language
The accessories embodied the collectionโs spirit of progression. The Lauren bag was elongated with purpose, the Knot softened its silhouette, and the Cabat transformed into an elegant clutch. New signatures made their debut โ the Squash bag, the Framed Tote, and the Crafty Basket โ alongside a playful leather Intrecciato newspaper. Footwear, in particular, captured attention: pointed-toe clogs in green and silver metal, and ultra-wide Intrecciato thong sandals delivered a surprising, offbeat energy that became one of the seasonโs most memorable moments.
Even the soundtrack echoed this theme: Steve McQueen re-engineered both Nina Simone and David Bowieโs versions of โWild Is The Windโ into a duet โ Intrecciato translated into sound.
For Spring/Summer 2026, Louise Trotterโs message was clear and powerfully delivered: at Bottega Veneta, craftsmanship is a shared language, heritage is a springboard โ not a boundary โ and the future is vivid, tactile, and unapologetically luxurious. A new chapter has unmistakably begun.
Catherine Pun
A Hong Kong native with Filipino-Chinese roots, Catherine infuses every part of her life with zest, whether sheโs belting out karaoke tunes or exploring off-the-beaten-path destinations. Her downtime often includes unwinding with Netflix and indulging in a 10-step skincare routine. As the Editorial Director of Friday Club., Catherine brings her wealth of experience from major publishing houses, where she refined her craft and even authored a book. Her sharp editorial insight makes her a dynamic force, always on the lookout for the next compelling narrative.
