Sakkwa proves that some of Thailand’s best cooking doesn’t need the formality of fine dining to leave a lasting impression.
Chef Worathon ‘Tae’ Udomchalotorn’s credentials are anything but casual. After training at Le Cordon Bleu and the Culinary Institute of America, he honed his craft alongside Chef Thitid ‘Ton’ Tassanakajohn of Le Du – co-founding the restaurant before opening his own acclaimed Kavee. He also sharpened his skills in some of the world’s most respected kitchens, including WD~50 in New York, Red Medicine in Los Angeles, and the three-Michelin-starred Benu in San Francisco.
But at Sakkwa – his latest venture, tucked away on the fourth floor of a shophouse in Talat Noi, Old Town – he strips away the usual fine-dining conventions while retaining every ounce of the skill and technique behind them.
In a city where many ambitious restaurants chase tasting menus and Michelin stars, Sakkwa takes the opposite path. Instead of a set menu, it offers an à la carte format, making the experience feel relaxed and – above all – fun.
Read more: Cherry Olive Cocktail Club Lands In Silom With Some Of Thailand’s Biggest Bar Names
Thai Home-Style Food, Given A ‘Face-Lift’
Chef Tae describes his cooking as giving familiar Thai dishes a ‘face-lift’, and it’s probably the simplest way to understand Sakkwa’s ethos.
Every dish begins with something classic – the flavours many Thais grew up eating at home – before being reworked through modern methods, intentional presentation, and just enough creativity to surprise you without losing the soul of the original.
The menu may seem simple, but behind every plate lies an immense amount of craft.
We started with two beautifully executed bites. Southern-style herbal rice and trout roe tartlets turn the Thai southern khao yum into a crisp, one-bite snack packed with herbs and pops of salinity.
Meanwhile, marinated raw tiger prawns arrive infused with fragrant kaffir lime shells, inspired by Thai-Chinese pickled seafood. Vivid, aromatic and layered in herbs, it’s one of the restaurant’s signature dishes – and it’s not difficult to see why.
Lively Cooking With Serious Craft
The smoked duck sausage is something you really have to order – served next to grilled peppers and an entire duck head. Yes, you read that right. As you’re eating sausage made from duck meat, stuffed inside a duck neck, there’s a duck head on the plate staring at you.
It feels gimmicky at first. But once you’ve finished the sausage, the kitchen returns the head split in half – an invitation to savour the brain and tongue as the final savoury payoff. Definitely worth ordering.
Another must-try is the Japanese scallop, paired with crispy ginger and an icy cucumber granita inspired by tom kha gai. Cool, fragrant and refreshing, it takes the familiar backbone of coconut curry and turns it into something fresh and surprising.
Even vegetables get the same careful attention. Stir-fried celtuce stems arrive with mushroom ragù, crispy kale, and a rich salty-fish cream cheese beneath. It turns the everyday taste of pad kana pla khem into one of the meal’s most rewarding plates.
The main event: a beautifully crafted 14-day dry-aged Peking duck – smoked, grilled and glazed with an intensely reduced sauce. Inspired by the rich profile of ped palo [five-spice duck], it comes with young bamboo shoots and aromatic jasmine rice from Phichit province. Rich but never heavy, this dish captures Chef Tae’s gift for lifting classic Thai tastes while keeping them approachable and homey.
Don’t Skip Dessert Or The Rice Wine
The pineapple piña colada ice cream comes with grilled pineapple, passionfruit granita, and local sato jelly. There’s one final surprise hidden inside – we won’t spoil it. It’s a clever finishing touch that makes an already solid dessert one of the meal’s best moments.
The drinks list deserves equal attention. Skip the standard wine pairing and explore Thailand’s growing craft-sato scene. Devanom’s selection impresses, especially Luem Pua (‘Forget Your Husband’) – a rare label better known for Thai Airways First Class than most restaurant wine lists.
Relaxed Excellence
Perhaps Sakkwa’s greatest achievement is how strikingly easygoing it feels. Rather than cooking to satisfy awards criteria, Chef Tae has created a restaurant where imagination comes first.
Liberated from expectations, the menu lets him adapt the Thai dishes he truly loves to cook with vision and character. That freedom runs through every plate, making the experience feel natural.
Despite his résumé, there’s no intimidation here. The dining room feels more like a beautifully designed living room than a formal restaurant. Open kitchen, modern interiors, and a casual vibe encourage sharing plates over whispering across tasting menus.
In an era when many chefs fight to prove their cleverness, Sakkwa succeeds by remembering something simpler: great restaurants should be enjoyable.
Dishes are drawn from memories many Thais already share, viewed through a fresh lens. The food reminds you why you loved those tastes in the first place.
Sakkwa, 4/F 839, Charoenkrung Road, Talat Noi, Samphanthawong, Bangkok 10100, Thailand, +66 063 926 6575, Instagram: @sakkwa.bkk
Chol is a Thai writer and editor specialising in travel, culture, and lifestyle. A former magazine writer and contributor to several travel guidebooks, she has also appeared in Netflix's Midnight Asia. She is passionate about storytelling and exploring Thailand's diverse communities and landscapes.
